​Here are some information articles that I have found and thought interesting. 

 ABOUT THE BULLDOG:

English Bulldogs are a wonderful breed that may require
 a lot of love, attention, and understanding: 

English Bulldogs are an INDOOR dog - because of their face/nasal structure and their short coat -- they can not tolerate the 'out of doors' for long periods of time -- in hot weather, they can overheat, on the same note they are not able to tolerate cold temperatures either.  If left out, in the HEAT or COLD, for an extended period - a bulldog can develop breathing difficulties that may lead to heart and lung problems.  They need an air/heat temperature controlled living area.           
Bulldogs ~ CAN NOT SWIM -- but bulldogs do love the water --  if you are going to be around open water -- please  invest in a life jacket for your pet.       
GROOMING  is important --  their wrinkles, and folds need to be washed and cared for almost daily.   Our vets recommend to clean the wrinkles with plain soap and water, drying them completely.  Then use a corn starch powder, if needed, dusting the wrinkles. Careful not to get powder in their eyes.  Our vet recommends using Oatmeal Shampoo and a Conditioner for their bath every two weeks or so as needed.
a Bulldog is not a complainer - so we, as their owner/protector,  need to stay active on watching for any signs of health issues or injuries.   

                                      FOOD AND TREATS:

* Food:    I feel best about feeding our bulldogs a dog food made from lamb, or venison mixed with a rice base and yogurt . A food based on fish is a good source of Omega 3.  A English Bulldog's digestive system can easily be upset, therefore, they need consistency,  find the type of food your pet will tolerate, and try to stay with it.  Have a talk with your vet, the breeder, and other English Bulldog owners to determine the best food to use, it may take some time to find the right food for your bulldog.   If you notice your pet regurgitating his/her food, that may mean they are not able to handle that particular type or brand of dog food.   Upon doing some research, experiences with my pets, and talking with a couple of breeders,  I have found that some of the Bulldog's skin problems may be caused by a high corn, high grain, ratio in their food.  For our four legged family members I have found that a Grain Free Food works for them.

* Treats:    I do not give my pets rawhide chews - ours have a tendency to chew on them for a few minutes, making them real slimy, then they try to swallow the whole thing -- I have had to put my hand down their throats many times to remove a rawhide chew that they are choking on.  So my pets no longer get rawhide chews.  They seem to do the same thing with whole pigs ears,  but I have found the thinly sliced ears work okay.  Also mine have choking problems with the dried chicken strips.  And there are many softer treats to choose from.  Or try dog biscuits which are good for them and a good teeth cleaner.   

* Speaking of cleaners -- check with your vet to see what is the best shampoo, conditioner, and cleansers to use on and around your bulldog.  Check the ingredients of a household cleaner to be sure that if your pet walks across a newly cleaned floor and then licks their feet that they will not get sick from the cleaning product.

VET CHECKS AND DAYCARE

  *  FIND a GOOD veterinarian:  It is important that the vet you choose knows the ins and outs of the Bulldog Breed.  Please take your pet to your vet for regular checkups.  
Keep their shots up to date.   Especially, if you use an animal day care.  I keep doggy wipes handy, to wipe our dog(s) down, after a vet check or any other multi-dog activity before allowing them to run free in the house.   Dog wipes also work great to give your pet a "bath" during the cold season. 

* Daycare:    If you work long hours and are not able to be available to walk your pet during your time away ~~  I recommend a Doggy Care Person or a Doggy Daycare facility for your pet.  Or even a wonderful neighbor willing to help out..It is hard on your pet to be left alone for 8 to 12 hours.  They are not able to "hold it" for that length of time.   And leaving your pet in a small confined crate, for more then overnight to sleep, is unforgivable.  At least provide a room for them so they can play. etc.  OR a dog door out to a fenced in play area, that is completely enclosed for their protection and safety.  


Learning the hard way -- DO NOT allow your Bulldog near stray cats - Stray cats are carriers of many diseases, nasty skin conditions, lice, fleas, and a variety of worms.                                                                         .
* I recommend:  Do Your Research ~~ Explore all the information web sites you can ~ to research the health and characteristics of the breed that you are interested in ~~ Especially the Bulldog.

There is no such thing as too much research, 
when it comes to any life changing purchase.

    When researching a breed of pet for your home - take into account:
       - What do you expect from your pet.  
       -What the pet can expect from you.   

Discuss the breed with your family -- talk about what will be needed now and in the future ~ to care for the pet you do decide on..

  A English Bulldog is a wonderful choice, but make sure it is a family choice.

                            Remember:  "Every breed has their own problems".                          
                    As I was doing my research and talking to different breeders ~~
I was told:    "If a health problem exists - a Bulldog more then likely
 has it somewhere in their lineage."   

    There are breeders out there that claim they have  "PURIFIED"  the Bulldog breed and have bred  OUT  the health issues.    If a breeder is honest they know better then to claim that.  Purchasing whatever breed of puppy you would choose PLEASE realize you WILL Have Trips to the Veterinary ~~ 




IF you notice a mistreated animal in your neighborhood -- 

  PLEASE do something to aide in the protection of their life 
and the well-being of them
 and all neglected and abused animals. ​

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------​


     I found the following article while doing research, while I may not agree with everything, I feel it is good reading.

Dog Behaviors..... 

Dog behavior can be puzzling to both new and experienced dog owners. Dogs do not operate with the same motivations as people, so their actions don’t always make sense to us.  Here are some of the most common dog behavior issues and how to resolve them in your own home.

Chewing:      Puppies love to chew, especially while they are teething. It feels good on raw gums, and very young puppies use their mouths to explore their world, tasting as they go. This is both natural and unavoidable, so prevention is the best cure for chewing. Dog-proof your home by moving harmful items like wires, power cords, cleaning supplies, and other small objects out of your dog’s reach. Have plenty of acceptable chew toys on hand. For teething puppies, freeze a baby’s teething ring or even a knotted rag for quick, inexpensive relief. So long as your dog has sufficient acceptable toys to chew, he will be less likely to chew on unacceptable items, such as your dress shoes. Whenever your dog is in his crate or in a room, there always should be chew toys for him. If you see your dog chewing on something he shouldn't’, you need to  correct him by saying “No,” and give him one of its toys instead.
There are commercial products available to spray on items you don’t want your dog to chew; these sprays will make anything taste unpleasant. If you choose to use these sprays, test a small corner of the item first to avoid ruining it. While this method can be effective, it should only be used to supplement the addition of acceptable chew toys. Spraying your personal items with bitter spray alone won’t teach your dog to chew on only his toys.
Biting:    Biting is a natural part of healthy, friendly puppy play between animals. It is not, however, a healthy part of puppy play with her owner. Puppies learn when and how hard to bite by playing with their litter mates; mimic this play by whining pitifully if your puppy bites you, then replacing your hand with a chew toy. Lavish praise on your puppy when she chews the toy. If your puppy keeps biting you, stand up and stop playing with her. For a puppy, it’s no fun unless someone’s playing, and she should learn to stop biting almost immediately. For an older dog, correct her by saying “No,” and withdraw your hand. Never put up with a puppy biting you. When a biting puppy becomes an adult, her behavioral problems will only become more severe.

Growling over food:     Many people think that dogs are entitled to be protective of their food and that growling is a natural response. However, a dog growling at a person over food can escalate into much larger issues, especially if growling is just one of many other behavioral problems. Place several small bowls of food next to each other. As your dog goes to eat one of the bowls, move one of the other bowls to the other side, but still within the dog’s reach. Keep up this repetition until the dog realizes that a human hand is no threat to his food. 

Barking:     Each time your dog barks, go see why the dog is barking. If it’s for a good reason, like a stranger near your property, praise the dog and then tell him to be quiet. If it’s for another reason, like a squirrel in a tree, tell the dog to be quiet and immediately go back into the house. The dog will soon see that sometimes barking is acceptable, but not always. The dog will learn to bark for the ‘good’ reasons. If the dog sees a squirrel in a tree, he will still bark, but not continually. Instead, he will bark once or twice to scare the squirrel and be satisfied. 

Digging:   Dogs like to make dens--either out of boredom, or to make a nice spot to lie down. Digging is a natural tendency for dogs. If you have the room to do so, make an acceptable spot for your dog to dig, like a sandbox. Place the sandbox in an area that is cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Place your dog’s toys or treats in the box and encourage your dog to dig in it by digging in the box yourself. Periodically turn the dirt over or place new earth in the sandbox to keep it exciting for him/her.


Getting in the garbage:   Correct the dog when he gets into the garbage while you are home.When you are not home one can purchase a heavy-duty lidded step trash can and take it out before it’s filled to overflowing. Dispose of especially savory trash (to a dog) immediately, like bones and meat. We burn wood , so I just take any savory bone, etc, down to the stove.... but if you are not able to do this ~ have a covered plastic ice cream container available to put the items in and remove them from the house when you leave.

Jumping:    Jumping is a dog’s expression of happiness. If you don’t mind your dog jumping, train your dog to jump only when it’s ok, via a signal that you give your dog. Otherwise, it will equate jumping as an always-ok action, which can be challenging 
when guests that don’t own a dog enter your home. Correct the dog immediately when 
he is about to jump. Praise him when all four paws are back on the ground.

Soiling in the house:     Even dogs that are housebroken make mistakes. They can happen for a variety of reasons. If your dog has a physical problem like a urinary tract or parasite infection, he may or will lose control of his bladderor bowels.  Some dogs temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited, feel threatened or are scared. Dogs also mark their territory with urine; if they believe their territory has been invaded, they may incite territorial marking.

Dogs may also make mistakes in the house as a result of separation anxiety. If they’re left alone in the house for long periods of time, and soiling is accompanied by other destructive behavior, separation anxiety is likely the cause. To fix soiling in the house, first identify the cause of the behavior and alter the environment so that he will not repeat the behavior. 

Pulling on the leash:   The dog that does not walk properly on a leash requires a bit of training. When the dog is about to apply any tension to the leash, immediately stop in your tracks and be firm. When the dog turns to see what has happened to you, praise him for noticing and simultaneously move him back into his heel position. So long as the dog remains next to your leg, continue to praise him and give him rewards if necessary. Right next to you should be the most fun place for him to be. If he loses concentration and is about to put any tension on the leash again, stop without warning and repeat the sequence.

Whining or Crying:    This usually results from an owner giving in when a dog whines or cries. This provides positive reinforcement for the dog’s actions. Dogs learn that whining produces a favored response from the owner. If the dog sees that if he whines, he gets a nice long walk, he will whine to get one every time.  Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise and is fed a healthy diet. Reward him when his whining has stopped for over three seconds. Ignore whining for superfluous attention at all costs.

Effective Dog Discipline Remember that a dog is a pack animal, and he sees himself as part of your pack. Once you cater to the dog’s whim and let him lead, you become part of his pack and he becomes alpha male. (Or Female)  These common dog behaviors are easily trained out of a dog, so don’t be alarmed if they’re present in your puppy. Be consistent and firm  when your dog does the wrong things, but not abusive, and keep the praise flowing when he does the right things. Training your dog can be a process, but the happiness you’ll gain from proper dog behavior makes the effort worthwhile. 

Maintenance
Bulldog Wrinkles:    The English Bulldog's face is covered with wrinkles. This is a trademark that may require daily care to keep him comfortable and healthy. Mild soap will work for cleaning out between the wrinkles. Get a damp wash cloth with soap and clean around and under the wrinkles making sure not to get any in his eyes. You should dry the area well and apply Gold Bond (or similar) powder to the area. If it is irritated you may want to consider using Desitin cream. It may be required for you to clean the wrinkles up to 2x daily if needed depending on how 
dirty or irritated they may be.  

Cleaning the Tail  Area: ~~It also is very much a part of bulldog hygiene. When cleaning the tail area or tail pocket make sure to use a soft cloth and get in there real good to clean it, you may get out lots of hairs and keep this area clean and powdered as well. A bulldog tail may be tightly screwed against his back side and can be a real problem if not taken care of and cleaned daily. A severely infected tail is painful and may need to be removed in some cases, so it is important to keep this 
area cleaned well.

Tear Stains:   There are a few products on the market that are made for cleaning tear stains. You can use these products, but take care in using it near his eyes. You can also check with your vet for additional suggestions. You should also keep the area around your dogs eyes wiped off and cleaned, to keep any debris from getting into his eyes and irritating them.

Dry Nose:   If his nose is dry a light coat of Vaseline will help soften it and protect it from cracking.  My vet suggested to add Mineral Oil to the top of your dogs food that way they are coating their own nose as they eat. 

The English Bulldog is a quiet pet, loyal to his family and protective when necessary, but happy to curl up on the sofa, eat two or three square meals a day, and have his belly rubbed occasionally.  He can be a clown and can be stubborn to train, but he is good-natured and willing to be guided to good behavior if he thinks it's his own idea.



Puppy and Older Dog
Socialization
Socialization -- or, more specifically, the LACK of socialization -- is probably the single biggest cause of aggressive behavior in dogs. Lack of socialization causes fear responses in older puppies and dogs, leading to shyness, snappiness, and downright aggressive behavior. 

With puppies, socialization is fairly easy... just take your puppy with you, everywhere you go. Anywhere you're allowed to take him... take him. Introduce him to everybody. Make special trips to the park, or the pet store, or walk him in the grocery store parking lot. Show him off. Make sure he understands that ALL people, animals, places, are GOOD people, animals, places. If you notice that certain types of people, animals, or places cause even the slightest fearful reaction, take him more often to be introduced into those situations -- and reward him for appropriate behavior. 

Socializing the older dog to strange people, surroundings and strange dogs is a longer process than socializing a puppy to the same people, surroundings and dogs. It's not impossible, but does require more patience. His natural inborn instinct is to fear new things -- in the wild, new things are dangerous. You have to teach him to trust in your judgment. 

If you've been given the special challenge of socializing an older dog to strange people, it may not be as difficult as it sounds. There are rules to follow -- try to bear in mind how YOU would feel. Use common sense -- don't allow him to become overwhelmed. Watch his body language -- this will tell all. If he approaches strangers with his head slightly down, tail wagging, this is GOOD -- it's submissive, but happy. Don't allow people to pat the top of his head -- this is an aggressive gesture. Have them offer their hand for sniffing, then rub the chest area -- a natural calming spot in all dogs. Carrying extra-special treats (reserve the really good stuff for use when meeting strangers) will really speed the process If he hangs back from meeting people, don't encroach on his "safety zone" -- allow him to approach in his own way, in his own time. Food treats will help. Reward for appropriate behavior -- appropriate behavior is interest only -- no barking or growling. If the dog barks (not in a friendly way) or growls, you've forced him past his limit. 

On the subject of growling: growling at humans is inappropriate. In situations where the dog is fearful, though, it's a first-line-of-defense against the scary things, and the last thing you want to have happen is for someone to teach this dog not to growl. If you find a human that your dog will growl at, the best way to handle it is to teach the dog that this human means good things for him -- really good treats and profuse praise offered in conjunction with the presence of this person will help enormously. 

Set the dog up with "chance" meetings. Prepare the "stranger" ahead of time. Have them carry bits of hotdog or cheese in their pockets. Have them maintain a distance that's comfortable for the dog. (This process will work especially well, if you can arrange for several "strangers" over a period of time -- perhaps taking a walk, and meeting 1 or 2 such "strangers" each time.) While talking to the dog in a normal tone, have the stranger lob the treats to the dog, with the dog in a sitting position. Over time, the distance can be closed -- allow the dog to determine how close is "close enough". Never encroach on his safety zone -- you'll be lessening his trust in you, and you may be held liable for the consequences. 

The purpose in all of this, is to teach the dog that strange people mean GOOD THINGS for him. This system of reinforcement for appropriate behavior can be used to socialize the dog to any fearful situation -- strange dogs or places, being groomed, going to the Vet's -- anything. Always carry treats , because EVERY situation is an opportunity for learning. Keep the safety zone intact, keep a firm grasp on your patience, and remember: he WILL learn. 

Special considerations regarding socialization with giant breed dogs and puppies: 

At seven months, your giant breed puppy may very well weigh seventy pounds or more. Do you socialize him with pups in the same age group, or adult dogs in the same weight group? 

Age is a much more important consideration than size -- if your pup weighs seventy pounds, and you choose to socialize him to adult dogs because of this, he can be ostracized by the group, based on immaturity versus size. Dogs have no concept of breed differences:  those seventy pound adult dogs may look at your 70-pound pup, and deem him socially unacceptable. He won't be taught doggie rules of etiquette -- he'll be excluded from the group, or even repeatedly attacked by the others, which can lead to fear aggression toward other dogs. 

It's better to choose playmates based on age -- your puppy won't knowingly hurt another, but things can happen, just because he's bigger than the others.   Keeping a close watch while they play and get to know each other would be a good idea. 

_____________________________________________________
____________________________________________
__________________________________












English Bulldog Information.
COPEMANS ENGLISH BULLDOGS